McLaw on Tour

McLaw family of Dunedin leave behind dog and house, take children away from computers and television and seek warmth, music and adventure in Central America.

Thursday, April 13, 2006

Laguna Chikbal, Guatemala

Our third excellent daytrip from Xela was to this volcanic lake. It is a collapsed volcanic caldera and sacred to the Mayans.
To get there we took a crowded colectivo (shared taxi-van) then walked for 2 hours on the steepest track we have ever had to struggle up. The kids were fantastic and walked their legs off (helped by freshly squeezed orange juice a la Jane Lawless at the halfway point). The last approach to the lake was down a flight of 600 steps, each a goodly height.
Finally made it though, to enjoy watching the mist and clouds drifting through the very NZ-like bush. A picnic lunch and we were ready to scale the 600 steps again, although not without frequent rest stops.

The lookout, once again, would have failed to meet DOC standards, although this one did warn of a recommended maximum loading of 8 people. Not filled with confidence given that it swayed alarmingly under the weight of one nervous adult and 2 children


Daily Easter parades are a part of our time in Xela, getting more elaborate every evening. Unfortunately mostly held in darkness so difficult to send you an image, but we'll see what we can do in Antigua.

Quetzaltenango (Xela), Guatemala


Having the most amazing time in Guatemala, with astonishing sights nearly every day, and sometimes several times per day. The local transport is pictured at left, the infamous chicken buses (possibly so named because the locals carry their chickens on it, or maybe because the drivers are constantly playing chicken, passing on blind corners.) They leave when packed to the gunwales with people, mostly colourfully dressed local Mayans. Ciaran was slightly appalled on his first trip in one, but now is really into the visual splendour of them.
The yellow church is San Andres Xecul, reached by pickup truck from Xela and a weird riot of colour and symbols. If you look closely you will spot monkeys and jaguars as well as saints.
The scene of all the hats was taken from a balcony in Xela, while eating breakfast. From what we can gather it was payday for the workers. They were queued 4 deep right around a city block, waiting for the heavily armed bank gates to open. When they did, the workers were allowed through in single file, and the whole business was still not completed by 4pm. We believe this scene is repeated every fortnight!




Another day trip took us up to Fuentes Georgias, a natural hot spring high in the cloud forest. It was a spectacular trip on the back of a pick up (those who believe in seat belts can stop now), winding up through precipitous mountain ravines on a narrow but two way road. At the top, we found this lovely series of hot pools where we could soak with the locals and give ourselves mud facials if we so desired.

Monday, April 10, 2006

Quetzaltenango (Xela), Guatemala



Only 2 days in Xela so far, and we've already been to 2 parades.
The first was a student parade of unknown significance but interesting for its colour, music and enthusiasm. It ended on a political note, with a rally in the square, complete with classic Latin American burning of the American flag and an effigy of Uncle Sam, much to the enjoyment of the crowd.
This morning, being the Sunday before Easter, we found the Mayan community carrying this statue of the Virgin of tears through the streets. They were accompanied by a woeful brass band playing dirges and the burning of incense.
There are a surprising number of people who dress in this traditional Mayan clothing in everyday life.
While Ciaran liked the explosions of the Mayan/Catholic religion, Romany is enchanted with the iconic nature of pure Catholicism as practiced here. We told you they would get an interesting education from travel!

CaƱon del Sumidero, Mexico



On our last day in San Cristobal we went on a trip through an amazing canyon by rapid motorised canoe (2 x 200Hp motors for those who are interested). Being small Princess Romany and her escort were invited to take the best seat in the house, up with the driver, with a great view.
The walls of the canyon are 1000m cliffs in places and the water 100m deep. We made numerous stops to watch the 3-4m crocodiles on the banks. Bonus points for spotting the one in the photo above.